Solar Flair: How to Make a Retro-Inspired Mica Shift Brooch

There’s something about sunshine and shimmer that just screams, “Make me into jewelry!” That was the vibe behind this mica shift brooch I’ve dubbed Solar Flair. It’s bold, retro, and packed with personality.

In this tutorial, we’re channeling mid-century sunshine with metallic clays, quirky textures, and the magic of mica shift. This one’s for my fellow makers who love a little sparkle and want to flex those polymer clay muscles, whether you’re brand new to mica shift or just haven’t pulled out your metallics in a while.

Let’s dig in and make a mica shift brooch that would make the sun jealous.

What is Mica Shift, and Why Is It So Cool?

The Science (But Make It Crafty)

Metallic polymer clay is packed with mica particles suspended in a translucent base. These particles have shiny surfaces and duller edges. When you condition the clay, those particles start to align creating a smooth sheet that shimmers when viewed from above. But peek at the edge? Dull and dark.

When you press a texture into the clay, it disrupts that alignment. Some of the darker edges shift to the surface, creating contrast and depth.

Why You’ll Love It

Once you shave off the raised texture, you’re left with a “ghost” of the original design. The surface looks textured—but it’s completely smooth to the touch. And after a good sand and buff? That metallic shimmer really comes to life.

As far as texture goes, your imagination is the limit. Use commercial texture mats and rollers, make your own with scrap clay, or reach for whatever’s on hand, crumpled paper, aluminum foil, a scrap of lace. Anything that makes an impression is fair game.

Inspiration Behind the Solar Flair Brooch

If you’ve been around a while, you’ll know I love me some retro vibes. This brooch was inspired by vintage sunrise graphics, those bold rays and saturated colors just begged to be reimagined in clay.

I already had a few of my favorite Cernit Metallics open, and the colors played so nicely together I couldn’t resist. Add in some shiny new tools I hadn’t had a chance to test-drive yet, and the stars aligned. This project came together better than I’d hoped.

Now it’s your turn! Gather your clay, print the template, and let’s get to work on your very own Solar Flair mica shift brooch.

Tools & Materials

• Non-porous work surface — I work on either glazed tile or glass
• Pasta machine dedicated to polymer clay use — I use an Atlas 180 and will refer to the settings I use on my machine. If you don’t have a pasta machine an acrylic roller and some playing cards will do in a pinch, it’ll just take a little more work.
• Solar Flair Brooch template
• Metallic polymer clay — three or more different colors. I’ve used Cernit Metallics in the following colors
  • Gold
  • Rust
  • Copper
  • Turquoise
  • Turquoise Gold
• Polymer clay blade — a sharp blade is a must for successful mica shift. I find a flexible blade easiest to work with
• Texture roller(s) or mat(s) of choice — one is fine but a variety is even better. I’m using these ones
• Texture sponge
• Parchment paper
• Burnishing tool — I use an espresso tamper but your roller will do fine
• Round shape cutters — 1/4” micro cutter, 1”, 1 1/4” & 2 1/2”
• Domed glass — optional
• Small metal bowl — optional
• Liquid polymer clay
• Bar pin
• Wet/dry sandpaper — I used 600, 800, 1000 & 1200 grits
• Rotary tool (Dremel) & a cotton buffing wheel
• Renaissance Wax — optional 

Directions for the Solar Flair Mica Shift Brooch

Mica Shift Magic

Choose a minimum of three metallic clay colors. I’ve used five, but feel free to use more if that’s your vibe. Condition each color separately and sheet them on a thick setting (No. 1 on my Atlas pasta machine).

As you condition the clay, be sure to run it through the pasta machine in the same direction each time to align the mica particles. See this post for a more in-depth look at the magic of mica shift.

Texture each sheet of clay and shave off the raised areas with a sharp blade. If your texture is shallow or you have trouble shaving off just the right amount, it is possible to skip the blade and sand off the texture after curing.

You can use the same texture for all the clay or mix it up and use a different texture for each color, as I have done.

After shaving the clay, cover with a sheet of parchment and burnish smooth. To further smooth the sheets, run them through the pasta machine on the No. 1 setting four times, rotating the sheet a quarter turn each time. Repeat on the No. 2 setting. For the domed centerpiece, run the clay through on the No. 3 setting as well.

The Sun Center

Look for the best part of the pattern in the sheet of clay you’re using for the domed center and cut out a 1 1/4” circle. Drape the circle over the smallest (1”) domed metal bowl and gently press it into place. Set aside.

No tiny metal bowl? No problem. Drape the sheet of clay over a 1” round cutter, patterned side against the cutting edge, and gently dome the clay with your finger. Flip the cutter over onto a baking tile and cut through the clay. Peel up the excess and leave the domed piece in place for curing.

The Sun Rays

Print a copy of the template and cut out the individual rays. Divide the rays between the sheets of clay, making sure you will have an alternating color pattern. I placed the sheets of clay on a piece of parchment paper for easy lifting when it’s time to piece everything together. Leave the paper templates in place so the pieces don’t get mixed up.

On another piece of parchment paper, build the sun rays. Use a blade to snug up each triangle to make sure they will all fit together. Place a piece of parchment over the top and burnish the seams well, both front and back.

Center a 1” round cutter over the area where the rays meet and cut out a circle. Use a 2 1/2” cutter to trim the outer edge.

Place the rays in the center of a glass dome and gently press into place. If you don’t have a glass dome, it’s fine to bake the rays flat on a tile.

Bake the rays and the sun center for 45 minutes at the recommended temperature for your brand of clay.

Assembling the Sun

Wet sand the two pieces individually before assembling the brooch because it’s easier. I used 600, 800, 1000, and 1200 grits. I also sanded the bottom edge of the domed centerpiece on a sheetrock sanding screen.

Add a small amount of super glue to the bottom edge of the center dome and set it in place. If needed, once the glue has set, trim the center dome with a craft knife until it is flush or nearly flush with the back of the rays. Sand with coarse-grit sandpaper to smooth any rough edges.

Fill the center of the dome with a small piece of foil or some scrap clay. Smear some liquid clay over the back and cover the foil with a medium-thin piece of scrap clay. Smooth the edges and blend them into the back of the brooch.

Lightly press a bar pin into the scrap clay.

Condition a piece of clay for the brooch back and sheet it on a No. 5 setting. Texture the sheet with a texture sponge.

Cut out two small circles and a slit between them to fit the clay over the bar pin.

Smear some liquid clay all over the back and the side edges of the brooch. Put the backing clay in place and wrap it around to the front. Use the texture sponge to seal up the slit for the bar pin.

Give the liquid clay a few minutes to begin bonding, and then trim the excess clay with a sharp blade or craft knife.

Before baking again, make sure the wrapped edge of the backing clay is snugly sealed to the cured clay. You don’t want to find any unsightly gaps after curing. Wipe the front of the brooch with a wet wipe to remove any liquid clay residue.

Place the brooch on a clean kitchen sponge set on a baking tile and bake again for another 45 minutes at the recommended temperature for your brand of clay.

When the brooch has cooled, wet sand the wrapped edges with the same sandpapers you used before. Finish with a light coat of Renaissance Wax, if desired, and buff with a cotton buffing wheel.

Tips for Mica Shift Success

It’s All About the Direction

You know when you run your hand over a piece of velvet and the color shifts? Mica particles kind of work the same way. Running metallic clay through the pasta machine several times gets those particles lined up and looking shiny. But here’s the trick—you’ll want to run the clay through in the same direction each time. Don’t switch it up with quarter turns. Smooth those particles like you’d smooth down velvet: one direction, all the way.

Blades & Burnishing

A sharp blade is a must for shaving off those raised textures. I prefer a flexible blade, but you might find a stiff one works better for you. And keep some wet wipes nearby—if clay starts sticking, a quick swipe will help the blade glide cleanly.

Unless you really enjoy sanding (and honestly, who does?), burnish the surface completely smooth after shaving. A well prepped surface before curing means less time sanding post-curing.

My go-to method? Cover the clay with parchment paper and smooth it with my trusty espresso tamper. Then I run it through the pasta machine, starting at the same thickness I rolled the sheet to originally. I go through four times, giving it a quarter turn each time, then repeat the process on successively thinner settings until I reach the thickness I need for the project.

Creative Variations to Try

Switch Up the Shape & Size

This mica shift brooch actually started life as a pendant but just before I added the bail, I changed my mind and swapped it for a bar pin. Still, I think it would make a fab pendant. A square version, like the one in the inspo pic, could work too. Blow it up to 4 inches or more for a piece of mini wall art, or shrink it down for a daintier look if that’s more your style.

Play With Color Themes

I leaned into retro colors for this one, but that’s just one option. Try earthy metallics for a grounded vibe. Cool tones for a moonlit feel. Or go full rainbow—because why not? Whatever palette you pick, make it your own.

Conclusion

And there you have it, your very own slice of retro sunshine, wrapped in shimmering mica magic. Whether you’re pinning it on your jacket, gifting it to a friend, or just staring at it like, “Dang, I made that,” I hope this tutorial sparked some joy (and maybe a few more mica shift experiments).

If you give this mica shift brooch a go, I’d love to see your take! Tag me on Instagram @bysandracallander or drop a comment below. Bonus points for wild color combos and unexpected textures.

Now go forth and let that crafty sunshine shine.

More Mica Shift Magic to Try:

• How to Make a Polymer Clay Mica Shift Pendant
• Polymer Clay Trinket Dish Tutorial: Sunburst