How to Finish Polymer Clay Earrings Like a Pro

If you’re wanting to take your finished earrings to the next level, keep reading and learn how to finish polymer clay earrings like a pro.

Have you learned the skills you need to get the results you want on the face of your earrings but now wonder how best to attach posts and finish the backs?

Embedding your posts in clay is the most secure method to keep the posts in place. I prefer to bake the face of the stud first and then add the post and backing clay.

An earring back will rarely be seen other than by the wearer. But learning how to finish polymer clay earrings with a beautiful back will elevate your finished styles.

I have a friend who makes footstools out of recycled materials. The dustcovers are always made from some special, coordinating fabric. Will that ever be seen with normal, daily use? No. But it’s an extra special touch that shows my friend cares about every step in completing a footstool.

Finishing an earring back as beautifully as the front demonstrates that same level of care and attention to detail.

In this tutorial I demonstrate three different methods how to finish polymer clay earrings. They all use a textured backing piece and embedded posts. The first two methods add a simple textured backing (the second is my favorite.) The third wraps the backing around the edges, resulting in a border that frames the component face.

Grab your supplies and choose a method! Or try all three to find your favorite way how to finish polymer clay earrings.

Tools & Materials

• Non-porous work surface (I work on either glazed tile or glass)
• Pasta machine dedicated to polymer clay use (I use an Atlas 180 and will refer to the settings I use on my machine. If you don’t have a pasta machine an acrylic roller and some playing cards will do in a pinch, it’ll just take a little more work.)
• Earring components
• Super glue
• Earring posts
• Liquid clay
• Texture sheet and/or texture sponge
• Corn starch
• Craft knife
• Polymer clay blade  
• Acrylic rod
• Rubbing alcohol & cotton swabs

Instructions | How to Finish Polymer Clay Earrings

Before we get to the finishing part lets have a look at how I initially cut and cure the components.

Start with fairly thin components. If working with a sheet of clay for a slab, I use the no.4 setting on my Atlas pasta machine. If I’m using cane slices to make the slab, it’s one and a half turns of the knob on my Lucy Clay slicer, which is pretty close to the same as the no.4 setting on the Atlas.

Place the slab on your baking tile and gently roll over it from the center outwards with an acrylic rod. This will make sure it sticks well to the tile and helps to work out any air trapped between the clay and the tile.

Cut out your pieces as desired and remove the scraps. Leave the components in place on the tile.

Use a dotting tool to make pilot holes for jump rings if your aim with a Dremel is as bad as mine.

If there is no surface texture, cover the components with a sheet of printer paper and flip the tile over onto another tile so the components are sandwiched between them. If there is surface texture, simply tent the polymer clay components with foil.

Place the tile, either sandwiched or tented, on a baking sheet. Bake at the recommended temperature for your brand of clay for 45 minutes to an hour. I find the sandwiched pieces need a little longer bake time.

When the components have cooled carefully remove them from the tile by sliding a polymer clay blade beneath them to pop them off. Quickly remove any jagged edges with an emery board. Don’t be too fussy at this point, you’ll be doing more sanding a little later.

Use a small dot of super glue to hold an earring post in place. Once the glue has set continue with one of the following methods.

Finishing Polymer Clay Earrings | Method One

Condition a piece of clay for the backing. Finish by sheeting it on a thin setting (no.7)

Smear or sponge a thin layer of liquid clay on the back of the earring component and lightly press it into the sheet of clay. Let sit a few minutes to allow the raw clay to begin to bond and then run a craft knife around the edge of the component.

Press the component into a texture mat or sponge to texture the back. Trim away the excess clay by running the blade of a craft knife around the edge.

Repeat the process for the stud portion of the earring. Sponge on liquid clay, slip a piece of clay over the post, and use a texture sponge to press the raw clay against the cured component. Trim away the excess clay with a craft knife after giving it a few minutes to begin to bond to the cured piece.

Method Two

This is my preferred method, although it can be a little more fiddly than the above method.

Condition some backing clay and finish by sheeting on a thin setting (no.7)

Lightly dust a texture sheet with cornstarch and use it to texture the sheet of clay. Release the sheet of clay from the work surface and place it back. This makes it easier to lift the cut pieces off the work surface without distortion. Pressing the texture into the clay causes it to stick rather well to the work surface.

Using the same cutters as the cured components, cut out all necessary backing pieces from the textured sheet of clay.

Sponge the backs of the cured components with liquid clay and lay the backing pieces overtop. Gently press the backing pieces into place, making sure they have full contact with the cured clay. If the backing piece was distorted at all as it was lifted from the work surface gently stretch it to fully cover the back of the component.

Repeat for the stud piece. Sponge on liquid clay, center the backing piece over the post, and press into place. I use a pointed silicone tool to seal any gaps in the clay around the post if the backing placement had to be adjusted.

Method Three

In this final method the backing clay is wrapped around, covering the edges as well as the back of the components, leaving a thin border to frame the pieces.

Condition some backing clay and finish by sheeting on a thin setting, no.6 or 7, depending on how thick you’d like the border.

Smear or sponge a thin layer of liquid clay on the back and sides of the earring component and lightly press it into the sheet of clay. Cut a wide border around the cured pieces.

Lift a component off the work surface and place it onto a texture sponge. Hold the piece in place with one hand while lifting the sponge wrap the clay around the edges. Fold the backing clay all the way around to the front of the piece and then set aside for a few minutes, allowing the raw clay to begin to bond to the cured clay.

Use a craft knife to trim away the excess clay and wipe off any raw clay residue on the face with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Touch up the texturing of the border with the texture sponge.

Repeat the process for the stud pieces.

The Second Bake | All Methods

If there is no surface texture or embellishment on the face of the components place them face down on a piece of paper on top of a glazed tile. Tent with foil and bake at the recommended temperature for your brand of clay for 45 minutes.

If there IS surface texture or embellishment on the face of the components bake them face up. Studs with posts in them can be nestled into a bed of cornstarch or poked into a clean kitchen sponge. Or make yourself a stud holder by poking holes into thick cardboard to hold the earring posts.

Once you’ve got your pieces set up for baking, tent with foil and bake at the recommended temperature for your brand of clay for 45 minutes.

The Final Steps

Once your pieces have cured for the second time and cooled, finish them as you normally would.

I use a Dremel with a felt wheel to sand the edges of my pieces as well as drill the holes. If the mood strikes, I’ll use a pin drill for the holes.

If I’ve used any sort of metallic clay I will wet sand the face of the pieces starting with 600 grit sandpaper then on to 800, 1000, 1200 and 1500. I’ll finish with a little Renaissance Wax and buffing with a cotton wheel on my Dremel.

Assemble the earrings and you are done!

Notes

• What about sanding the backs? I’ve tried sanding the backs of earrings and while I like the results, personally, I think it’s more of a hassle than adding a backing piece. However, if you prefer to sand, it’s absolutely a great way to give your earrings a professional finish.
• Before gluing posts onto the back of round studs I will first drill the hole for the jump ring. This way I’ll know exactly where to place the post in relation to the hole, especially important if there’s a pattern you want facing a certain way.

Now that you’ve learned how to finish polymer clay earrings like a pro choose your preferred method and elevate your finished pieces.

As always, if you have any questions or comments, I’m happy to hear from you.